First Class Roofing & Siding

A secure and well maintained roof means more than just your physical comfort. It symbolizes the entire concept of domestic shelter and psychological well being.

One of life's basic necessities, along with food and clothing, is "a roof over one's head".

Yet most homeowners pay little or no attention to their roof until it leaks. Even then, repairs are often put off until the problem is too great to be ignored.

Roof leaks, though, are more than just annoyances that must be remedied. They can be the cause of severe internal structural damage which is more difficult and more costly to repair.

Periodic maintenance, on the other hand, is both simple and relatively inexpensive. All it takes is some basic information and a little conscientiousness.

Please remember that roofing is dangerous work, and is best left to the professionals. If you feel capable of doing it yourself, be sure to follow all safety guidelines.

THE BASIC FACTS
All roofs have five basic components:

Sheathing: the boards or sheet material which are fastened to the roof rafters to cover the house,

Roof Covering: shingles, tiles or sheets which protect the sheathing from the weather,

Roof Structure: the rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing,

Drainage: the features of the roof's design, such as shape, slope, layout, etc., which affect its ability to shed water,

Flashing: sheet metal or other material laid into the various joints and valleys of the roof to prevent water seepage.

Roofs have not one, but many enemies in nature:

Sun: The warmth and ultra violet rays of the sun cause roofing materials to dry out, overheat and deteriorate. The sides of a roof with southern or southwesterly exposure, therefore, often wear out faster than those facing the north or east, especially if they are dark in color since they absorb more of the sun's rays.

Rain: When rainwater finds its way through the interior of the roof structure, it sets up a moisture condition that is conducive to mildew and rot. It can destroy drywall, render insulation useless and jeopardize a home's electrical system.

Wind: A strong wind can actually lift shingles off a building, as well as drive rain water under the edges of roof shingles. It can also knock tree branches down onto the roof's surface, thereby scraping or even puncturing it.

Snow/ice: Melting snow often re-freezes at a roof's overhang, forming an ice dam and blocking proper drainage into the gutter.

Instead, the water backs up under the shingles and seeps into the interior. In the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair, or torn off the house.

Moss: Wood and built-up roofs are particularly susceptible to the decaying effects of moss. Its root systems serve as conduits for moisture to penetrate the roof surface. On built-up low slope or flat roofs, moss impedes the runoff of water. It also rust nails, causing shingles to loosen and blow off.

Another important aspect of roofing structure is the extent of a roof's steepness or incline. Referred to either by its slope, pitch or angle, this factor determines the type of roofing material that may or may not properly be used.

A roof with little or no slope is called a low slope or flat roof. Often these are bituminous material (such as asphalt) and gravel or, more technically, built-up roofs, and present the homeowner with a specific set of circumstances. Water tends to lay in ponds, and debris accumulates on flat roofs because of their lack of run-off. Clogged drains running through the building may leak and result in internal damage.

Since water expands 700 times in volume from the liquid state to the vapor state, any
moisture penetration into the felt layers of a built-up roof can cause bubbles, ripples and delamination of the system. This often results from the flat roof's accumulation and longer retention of rainwater, ice and snow.

Flat roofs also chronically suffer from poor ventilation. As a result of condensation, or in the event of leaks through the bituminous coating of the built-up roof, poor ventilation can lead to decay or delamination of the plywood sheathing.

As a result of these many problems, architects now call for some slope, and for the drainage system to be located along the outside perimeter rather than through the building.

THE VITAL STATISTICS
The type of roof you have largely depends on what is most popular and practical in your part of the country, and on when your house was built. The condition of your roof regardless of age, will depend on the effects of your local environment and the maintenance or lack of maintenance) which the roof has received.

THE TRUTH ABOUT LEAKS
The truth is that while many roof leaks are easy to repair, their sources are often difficult to find. Water dripping from a ceiling may not be from a leak directly above, but from a leak many feet away that runs down the rafter or across the ceiling before coming in. It could also be caused by the condensation of moisture rising from a bathroom or kitchen, collecting on the roof sheathing and then dripping through to the floor below. It might just as easily be from a plumbing leak situated in a wall or ceiling, and incorrectly attributed to a roof leak.

The best way to start tracking a roof leak to become familiar with the many possible causes. Then, by carefully examining the roof and using the process of elimination, you should be able to locate its source. The most frequent causes of roof leaks are:

POINTS TO REMEMBER
On Maintenance

If you plan to walk on a roof always use extreme caution. Even experienced roofers get hurt. Make sure to:

On Hiring a Roofer
If, like most homeowners, you want to engage a contractor to do the roofing work on your house, it pays to get more than one estimate and to check the following with each company:

TERMS TO REMEMBER

Asphalt: A residue from evaporated petroleum. It is insoluble in water but soluble in gasoline and melts when heated. Used widely in buildings for waterproofing roof coverings.

Bitumen: A generic term used for either asphalt or coal tar pitch.

Class A/Class C Shingle: A rating by the Underwriters Laboratories given to roofing material indicating its ability to withstand exposure to fire originating from outside the house or building.

Cornice: The trim at the eave line, usually consisting of a fascia board, a soffit for a closed cornice, and appropriate moldings.

Cricket/Saddle: A small false roof that is constructed in order to throw off water from behind an obstacle, such as a chimney.

Delamination: The separation of the layers of plywood sheathing due to exposure to moisture.

Drip Edge: A piece of metal placed over the roof sheathing at the perimeter to deflect water away from the sheathing and fascia board.

Eave: The lower part of a roof where it meets or projects over a wall.

Fascia: A flat board, band or face located at the outer edge of the cornice.

Flashing: Sheet metal or other material used in roof construction to prevent water seepage between joints.

Louver: An opening with a series of horizontal slats which permit ventilation but exclude rain and vision.

Mastic: A material used as a roofing cement.

Paper: A building material, usually asphalt impregnated cellulose or felt, used in roof construction to prevent the passage of air and water.

Parapet: A low wall at the edge of a platform or flat roof that projects above the roof line. It is the top of the, in multi-family buildings.

Rafter: One of a series of structural members of a roof designed to support the roof surface and load.

Ridge: The horizontal line at the junction of the top edges of two sloping roof surfaces.

Sheathing: The boards or sheet material which are fastened to the roof rafters to cover the house.

Shingles: Roof covering of asphalt, asbestos, wood, tile, slate or other material cut to stock lengths, widths and thickness.

Soffit: The underside of an overhanging cornice.

Step Flashing: The interweaving of flashing with the roofing material and the materials of a vertical wall surface, required whenever a vertical wall meets the roofing surface (such as in the case of a dormer, skylight, garage or chimney).

Truss: The engineered components which have supplemented rafters in many newer houses. They are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered in any way.

Valley: The joint formed by the junction of two sloping sides of a roof.



	Roof Maintenance & Inspection A secure and well maintained roof means more than just your physical comfort. It symbolizes the entire concept of domestic shelter and psychological well being. One of life's basic necessities, along with food and clothing, is "a roof over one's head". Yet most homeowners pay little or no attention to their roof until it leaks. Even then, repairs are often put off until the problem is too great to be ignored. Roof leaks, though, are more than just annoyances that must be remedied. They can be the cause of severe internal structural damage which is more difficult and more costly to repair. Periodic maintenance, on the other hand, is both simple and relatively inexpensive. All it takes is some basic information and a little conscientiousness. Please remember that roofing is dangerous work, and is best left to the professionals. If you feel capable of doing it yourself, be sure to follow all safety guidelines. THE BASIC FACTS All roofs have five basic components: Sheathing: the boards or sheet material which are fastened to the roof rafters to cover the house, Roof Covering: shingles, tiles or sheets which protect the sheathing from the weather, Roof Structure: the rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing, Drainage: the features of the roof's design, such as shape, slope, layout, etc., which affect its ability to shed water, Flashing: sheet metal or other material laid into the various joints and valleys of the roof to prevent water seepage. Roofs have not one, but many enemies in nature: Sun: The warmth and ultra violet rays of the sun cause roofing materials to dry out, overheat and deteriorate. The sides of a roof with southern or southwesterly exposure, therefore, often wear out faster than those facing the north or east, especially if they are dark in color since they absorb more of the sun's rays. Rain: When rainwater finds its way through the interior of the roof structure, it sets up a moisture condition that is conducive to mildew and rot. It can destroy drywall, render insulation useless and jeopardize a home's electrical system. Wind: A strong wind can actually lift shingles off a building, as well as drive rain water under the edges of roof shingles. It can also knock tree branches down onto the roof's surface, thereby scraping or even puncturing it. Snow/ice: Melting snow often re-freezes at a roof's overhang, forming an ice dam and blocking proper drainage into the gutter. Instead, the water backs up under the shingles and seeps into the interior. In the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair, or torn off the house. Moss: Wood and built-up roofs are particularly susceptible to the decaying effects of moss. Its root systems serve as conduits for moisture to penetrate the roof surface. On built-up low slope or flat roofs, moss impedes the runoff of water. It also rust nails, causing shingles to loosen and blow off. Another important aspect of roofing structure is the extent of a roof's steepness or incline. Referred to either by its slope, pitch or angle, this factor determines the type of roofing material that may or may not properly be used. A roof with little or no slope is called a low slope or flat roof. Often these are bituminous material (such as asphalt) and gravel or, more technically, built-up roofs, and present the homeowner with a specific set of circumstances. Water tends to lay in ponds, and debris accumulates on flat roofs because of their lack of run-off. Clogged drains running through the building may leak and result in internal damage. Since water expands 700 times in volume from the liquid state to the vapor state, any moisture penetration into the felt layers of a built-up roof can cause bubbles, ripples and delamination of the system. This often results from the flat roof's accumulation and longer retention of rainwater, ice and snow. Flat roofs also chronically suffer from poor ventilation. As a result of condensation, or in the event of leaks through the bituminous coating of the built-up roof, poor ventilation can lead to decay or delamination of the plywood sheathing. As a result of these many problems, architects now call for some slope, and for the drainage system to be located along the outside perimeter rather than through the building. THE VITAL STATISTICS The type of roof you have largely depends on what is most popular and practical in your part of the country, and on when your house was built. The condition of your roof regardless of age, will depend on the effects of your local environment and the maintenance or lack of maintenance) which the roof has received. THE TRUTH ABOUT LEAKS The truth is that while many roof leaks are easy to repair, their sources are often difficult to find. Water dripping from a ceiling may not be from a leak directly above, but from a leak many feet away that runs down the rafter or across the ceiling before coming in. It could also be caused by the condensation of moisture rising from a bathroom or kitchen, collecting on the roof sheathing and then dripping through to the floor below. It might just as easily be from a plumbing leak situated in a wall or ceiling, and incorrectly attributed to a roof leak. The best way to start tracking a roof leak to become familiar with the many possible causes. Then, by carefully examining the roof and using the process of elimination, you should be able to locate its source. The most frequent causes of roof leaks are: Improper flashing, sealing or worn-through flashing around projections through the roof such as plumbing stacks (vent pipes), chimneys, skylights, antennas, dormers, etc. Missing, broken or pierced shingles, caused by stones, hail, broken branches or walking on the roof. Tears in roof valleys, created by expanding and contracting metal or by someone walking in the valley. Also, debris can build up in the valley and block run-off. Exposed nails, nails in the wrong places or nails not set flush with the underlying shingles. Wind driven rain through an attic window or louver, into the chimney brick or mortar or under shingles, through the siding and behind the step flashing where a lower roof joins the vertical side of the main house. Ice dams, which prevent proper run-off and force water to back up under the shingles. Improperly hung gutters or drip edges. Improperly installed roofing, or a roofing type which is incorrect for the slope involved. Cracking and blistering of roof mastic on rolled asphalt or on built-up roofing. Ponds of water, created when flat or low sloped roofs begin to sag. Clogged roof drains. Cracked or disintegrating chimney caps. POINTS TO REMEMBER On Maintenance By heeding the following points on maintenance, you will do much to lengthen the life of your roof: Cut off or trim tree branches that overhang the roof and gutters. This will prevent debris and moss from clogging the valleys and gutters and from keeping everything wet or damp. It will also eliminate the problem of branches scraping and damaging the roof surface when the wind blows. Run downspouts (leaders) to the ground onto splashblocks slanting away from the foundation, or directly to another gutter below, -never onto a lower roof surface. Never try to change the color of roofing by painting the shingles. The paint and the granules will come off. Don't exceed your local building code's limit on the number of layers of shingles that can be applied. The additional weight can cause structural problems, and the increased thickness may prevent nails from penetrating the roof sheathing. And while nail-over replacement roof coverings are less expensive than tear-off re-roofing jobs, they may only last 65-75% as long. Too many layers also increase the difficulty of fighting fires. Never nail in valleys or in places where nails will be exposed between shingles, such as in the slots or shadow lines. Follow the manufacturer's instructions printed on each bale of shingles. Keep nailing well concealed on cedar shingles. In order to prevent corrosion, don't allow different metals to come in contact with each other, such as galvanized nails and copper flashing, or adjoining strips of aluminum and copper flashing. Clean gutters and downspouts (underground drains, too) Spring and Fall. On Ventilation One of the most critical factors in roof durability is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build-up in the attic area combine to cause rafters and sheathing to rot, roof shingles to buckle and insulation to lose its effectiveness. In addition, ice dams frequently occur when attics are not properly ventilated. It is therefore important never to block off roof ventilation, such as louvers, ridge vents or soffit vents, even in winter. When insulating rafter bays or flat roofs, always leave a gap of at least 11&Mac218;2" between the insulation and the sheathing to allow for adequate ventilation. On Safety If you plan to walk on a roof always use extreme caution. Even experienced roofers get hurt. Make sure to: Always check for electrical wires when carrying or placing ladders. Secure the ladder at the bottom and at the top. Take care that children are kept away. Watch out for metal fatigue or for decay in the rungs of a wood ladder, particularly if you plan to carry a load. Do not use painted wood ladders. Never wear leather-soled shoes when walking on a roof. Use sneakers or rubber composition soles that grip. Check the roof sheathing from the attic before walking on the roof to avoid stepping through deteriorating sheathing. Stay off slate, asbestos, wood or metal roofs. Stay off roofs with moisture, ice, snow, frost or fungus. Stay off steeply sloped roofs. Stay off roofs altogether on windy days. Keep from stepping in roof valleys or you will damage them. Avoid walking on roofs with brittle or curled shingles or shingles that are hot from the sun, or you will damage them. Never leave the ladder standing overnight or for extended periods of absence. On Hiring a Roofer If, like most homeowners, you want to engage a contractor to do the roofing work on your house, it pays to get more than one estimate and to check the following with each company: Is the company licensed? Bonded? (Does not apply in all states.) Have they been in business a long time? Will they supply local references for you to evaluate their work? Do they demand all payment in advance or in stages as the material is delivered and the work gets done?-- or wait for payment/assignment of payment from your insurance company? Do they work with you and your insurance company to get your roof repaired/replaced promptly and make sure all roof damages are brought to the attention of the insurance adjuster? Is the guarantee for BOTH the manufacturer's material AND the roofer's labor? If you are uncertain about the recommendation and estimates made by a roofer, you might also consider contacting the local Better Business Bureau or consumer affairs off ice to make sure there are no complaints against the roofing company. TERMS TO REMEMBER Asphalt: A residue from evaporated petroleum. It is insoluble in water but soluble in gasoline and melts when heated. Used widely in buildings for waterproofing roof coverings. Bitumen: A generic term used for either asphalt or coal tar pitch. Class A/Class C Shingle: A rating by the Underwriters Laboratories given to roofing material indicating its ability to withstand exposure to fire originating from outside the house or building. Cornice: The trim at the eave line, usually consisting of a fascia board, a soffit for a closed cornice, and appropriate moldings. Cricket/Saddle: A small false roof that is constructed in order to throw off water from behind an obstacle, such as a chimney. Delamination: The separation of the layers of plywood sheathing due to exposure to moisture. Drip Edge: A piece of metal placed over the roof sheathing at the perimeter to deflect water away from the sheathing and fascia board. Eave: The lower part of a roof where it meets or projects over a wall. Fascia: A flat board, band or face located at the outer edge of the cornice. Flashing: Sheet metal or other material used in roof construction to prevent water seepage between joints. Louver: An opening with a series of horizontal slats which permit ventilation but exclude rain and vision. Mastic: A material used as a roofing cement. Paper: A building material, usually asphalt impregnated cellulose or felt, used in roof construction to prevent the passage of air and water. Parapet: A low wall at the edge of a platform or flat roof that projects above the roof line. It is the top of the, in multi-family buildings. Rafter: One of a series of structural members of a roof designed to support the roof surface and load. Ridge: The horizontal line at the junction of the top edges of two sloping roof surfaces. Sheathing: The boards or sheet material which are fastened to the roof rafters to cover the house. Shingles: Roof covering of asphalt, asbestos, wood, tile, slate or other material cut to stock lengths, widths and thickness. Soffit: The underside of an overhanging cornice. Step Flashing: The interweaving of flashing with the roofing material and the materials of a vertical wall surface, required whenever a vertical wall meets the roofing surface (such as in the case of a dormer, skylight, garage or chimney). Truss: The engineered components which have supplemented rafters in many newer houses. They are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered in any way. Valley: The joint formed by the junction of two sloping sides of a roof.